Giacomo Conterno Grignolino - 1973 Piemonte
Lovely stained brown leather, copper to caramel edges. Marvelous damp cork came out in two pieces with a little effort. Immediate sour butterscotch. Classic Orange Pekoe from an old Mediterranean red. Typical vertiginous central acids, here tapered with the dust and age of a mildewing leather desk blotter.
Fine sands of Monteforte seems to have had their effect. Wicked smooth sandpaper, roses, tawny toffee, mouthwatering acids, with just a hint of burnt barrels and rubber berries, steeped gently with some fancy orange peel. Outpaced my spicy takeout, put it aside and let it continue to open over the course of the evening.
Modern reports say Grignolino is nearly all clustered in Asti but this wine was made when Giacomo Conterno was still exclusively purchasing fruit, and therefore could have come from anywhere. After 1978, when their acquired first plot in Cascina Francia started producing, they seemingly focused on their own production. It didn't hurt 78 was a classic year in Barolo.
The Conterno Barolos have always been made with long macerations, and extended aging in old oak botti. Maybe we'll never know more about this. I found it on Astorwines searching for birth year novelties. $99 and not the last bottle. Back label says it was sourced from a private collection by Tim Elenteny. 720ml just cuz.