Quel Cepage Glossary

Here's some thoughts on words used in the wine descriptions. Not the final word on any of these subjects. Rather a deeper read and discussion on the mechanics of wine terms. Google is a great specific resource. 

France's national logo for organic products since 1985. Organic products carrying the logo must contain more than 95 percent organic components, and be produced or processed within the EU, and were certified by one of the inspection bodies

Source - ecolabelinex.com

Appellations are the certified areas with recognized historical merit in producing native products. These areas have elected or appointed boards to ensure the products are made to the levels expected. The rules vary by area, but typically they include such criteria as:

• Permitted grape varieties, and the ratios in which they can be blended
• Maximum yields
• Vine age and planting density
• Harvesting and vinification techniques
• Level of alcohol in the finished wine

Other foodstuffs have Appellation systems including cheese, and cured meats. Think Camembert Cheese and Parma Ham.

AOC is the top tier in France - Appellation d'Origine Controlée
DO is the main Spanish tier -  Denominación de Origen
DOCa / DOQ - of course Spain two extra muy TOP TOP regions, Denominación de Origen Calificada for Rioja, and Denominació d'Origen Qualificada (in Catalan) for Priorat
DOC is also used in Portugal - Denominação de Origem Controlada
DOC and DOCG are used in Italy, Denominazione di Origine Controllata, and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita. (Italy added a second level after they liberally created too many DOC areas) 

Sedimentary rock with fine grains, and less than 15% larger grains or crystals. Sandstone is a typical example. 

The French term for stirring wines that are left on their lees, this gently moves in some oxygen, and increases the wine and lees exposure.

The process in which grapes start their primary fermentation in an anaerobic environment. This prevents the sugars from oxidizing and effecting the flavors. The process typically happens with whole clusters of grapes, in a tank with Carbon Dioxide pumped over. The CO2 is heavier than air, and displaces the oxygen, forcing the yeast into a low power mode; consuming glucose slower and giving off less heat energy.

The fermentation occures "inside" the grapes, sugar and yeasts reacting, creating alcohol, giving off more CO2 and causing the berries to burst. The wine has extended contact with skins, giving it depth, while retaining freshness.

The French term for grape variety. Quel Cepage? is asking "What grapes are in that wine?"

Concrete is an excellent material for making and elevating wine. It is non-porous and non reactive, so wine is not affected by it unlike wood. Concrete acts as a heat sink, keeping wine and cellar temperature steady. It is durable and affordable, unlike oak which wears out, and stainless steel which is expensive. 

The use of concrete vats and vessels originated as hewing tanks out of stone walls, or aging wine in thick terracotta.

The modern trend is the concrete egg tank. 500 gallons, they are ready built, modern versions of Amphora. The shape helps the wine circulate, no corners to clean, and the heavy bottomed, skinny neck keeps more of the cap submerged.

Demeter International is the largest certification organization for biodynamic agriculture, and is one of three predominant organic certifiers. Its name is a reference to Demeter, the Greek goddess of grain and fertility. 

Demeter’s “biodynamic” certification requires biodiversity and ecosystem preservation, soil husbandry, livestock integration, prohibition of genetically engineered organisms and viewing the farm as a living “holistic organism”.

Source - Wikipedia

ECOCERT is an organic certification organization, founded in France in 1991.

ECOCERT primarily certifies food and food products, but also certifies cosmetics, detergents, perfumes, and textiles. The company inspects about 70% of the organic food industry in France and about 30% worldwide. 

Source - Wikipedia

The elapsed time of which the finished and blended wine is let to rest before bottling. It can refer to a required minimum aging, but typically implies letting the wine settle into a finished product, and any steps taken or celler interventions along the way.

The chemical process where yeast feeds on the sugars in the fruit juices, and converts them into alcohol. The reaction also causes a rise in temperature as the calories are consumed, and the yeast creates CO2 via aerobic respiration.

Fining and Filtering are the final alliterative steps before bottling to improve the look, taste and smell of the wine.

Fining is typically done to remove fine particles or excess tannins or unwanted flavors. A variety of traditional methods can be used including egg whites, gelatin, and Potassium Caseinate, a milk protein. These are all considered additives, and all render the wines unfit for vegans. They work by binding to the excess tannic flavors, or particles, which then cause them to drop out and settle at the bottom of the tank. Wines are then racked off to remove these settled sediments.

Filtration is the process of passing wine through ever smaller gauge filters, removing particulate matter, and at the same time removing textures, mouthfeel, and phenolic compounds, all of which give wine depth, and flavors.

A large wooden vat for making wine. Larger than a barrel, typically made from oak. Often as large as 1000 liters. 

The communal name for the scrubby, hard herb dominated underbrush that grows along the limestone coasts of the Mediterranean sea. Juniper, thyme, rosemary and lavender are common components, sharing a resinous nature, along with salt from the sea, and a cooked, smoked and burnt layer from the sun and summer fires.

Slang French version of glug glug, an onomatopoeia of the sound you make as you chug back that glass of perfect temperature natural wine at happy hour. 

Modern agriculture praises speed and efficiency, but not all fruits and vegetables ripen the same. Hand harvesting takes effort and work, but the vigneron uses their skills to select the best bunches, trimming or leaving underripe grapes. 

Hand harvesting is norm on steep terrain where tractors can't run, as well on older bush vines, planted sometimes haphazzardly through the fields. 

Occurring naturally in this area. This term is common for grapes, but often, and more importantly for yeast. Growers around the world can choose to plant/ graft from an ever growing list of varieties and clones, but yeasts remain site specific, as a product of their own growing season.

Indigenous yeast is a strong indication the winemaker is happy with the environs of the vineyard.

Lees refer to the natural sediment leftover after fermentation, skins, seeds, etc. Fine lees are the remains of the yeast cells, rich in glycerin, they give white wines aged sur-lie an added richness and complexity.  

Translated from the French as "named place", It typically consists of a vineyard, or notable site within a larger appellation.

The Catalan name for the distinct metamorphic rock found in Priorat, and parts of Montsant in Catalunya, Spain. The sloping hills are made of brittle laminated black, blue, copper slate, along with sedimentary sandstone, and a central East-West running vein of Devonian slate, another brittle soil, with quartz and a covering of oxides.

The ground cover is made of sharp, decomposed matter, with a low organic content. That is, no dirt. Mostly busted, sharp, flat stones in a thin layer directly on top of bedrock. 

This soil forces the roots of the vine deep and into, and often through, layers of mineral rich rock. The gaps and cracks trap water like a giant sponge, and give the wines a serious footing for extreme weather common in the area.

Reasonable intervention is the term given to the pragmatic approach some farmers may take in choosing to adopt organic and biodynamic practices, yet be prepared to use chemicals sparingly or at last resort.

Often financial cost is used as the delimiting value. If your crop will suffer then use the chemicals, if you don't need the chemicals, you save the costs. Amongst the more cynical growers, it is also profit which governs the decision to describe themselves as lutte raisonée in the first place as it allows for non certified practices.

Like being a vegan for the bragging rights and eating bacon when you're hungover. 

Malolactic Fermentation (MLF) is the process where the harder Malic acids are converted to softer Lactic acids. This process is common in Red Wines, and in some cooler climate grown whites.

Malic acids are found in sour, underripe fruits.  Malic flavors include apple, pear, lemon, and provide a bright acidity, as well act a preservative. When malic acids are greater than desired, MLF is permitted, or even induced, in an effort to soften the wine.

Lactic acids are found in yogurt, and sauerkraut, and contribute a smooth, milky texture, and softness. It has a single proton, compared to two in malic, so it reacts on your palate with half the effect.

MLF has a downside, and can spoil the wine without proper care. Wine without sufficient malic structure can become flabby, and buttery. Popcorn is a common descriptor. MLF also introduces lactic bacteria, which creates risk for bacterial growth, and spoilage. 

Wine can be made easily and simply without chemicals, additives, or excess manipulation in the cellar. Wine can be simple, but simple isn't easy.

A natural winemaker acts as shepherd. Tending the vines, growing the grapes, harvesting when they are ripe. The berries are covered in yeast from their season in the fields. Thermodynamics ensures that the rest just happens. Skins break, yeasts feed on sugars, alcohol acts as a solvent, extracting flavors from skins and seeds.

All this would happen without any intervention other than gathering the ripe fruit into a container, and knowing when enough is a enough. 

Natural wine is just like being a sculptor. You start with a block of marble and chip away all the parts that don't look like an elephant until you are left with a sculpture of an elephant. 

Abbreviation for négociant, a winemaking middleman, buying up grapes from farmers and making wine. 

The use of medicinal plants to heal and restore balance. In winemaking these include natural anti fungals and pest repellants such as nettle and chamomile.

This French term is also known as punch-down. The thick layer of skins, stems and seeds that floats to the top of the fermenting red wine contains a lot of the color, flavor, and aroma causing compounds. This Cap is punched down with a tool resembling a large potato masher. Think about dunking the floating tea bag a few extra times.

This French term refers to pumping the fermenting liquid over the top of the grapes. The crushed skins and whatever else typically forms a cap, floating on top of the liquids. The must is pumped from below, breaking the cap, and adding oxygen to the process. More liquid touches more skin, and is useful in increasing flavors and intensity in the wine.

Saignee is the free run juice produced in the grape press without any added pressure or stomping. The weight of the grapes above, and their dumping into the press causes ripe fruit to break.

This juice is typically given a short maceration period, usually a few hours, and then "bled off" into a fermentation vessel. The must is gently imparted with color, but avoids exposure to excessive tannins.

The remaining fruit in the press are crushed, and can be macerated longer, to make a red wine. This red wine will benefit from this process by increasing the intensity of the soaking ratio of must to skins, etc.

Les Vins SAINS (Sans Aucun Intrant Ni Sulfite) is a voluntary natural wine charter in which members self certify that all of their wines are grown without any chemicals, are hand harvested, and vinified natural without any added treatments or sulphites. 

Biodynamic certification allows up to 150mg/l of added sulphites. Even the AVN, Association Vin Natural, allows up to 40mg/l. SAINS permits only trace occurrences of naturally occuring sulphites. 

A flint and sand soil mix typical to the Loire. It is said to give a smoky gunflint aroma to wines.

When grapes are crushed, the naturally occurring yeast will typically start the fermentation process spontaneously. All of the required parts are in place, and the chemical reactions of nature does the rest. 

Wine wasn't invented one day. Louis Pasteur figured out WHAT was happening, not HOW to make it happen. 

The Greeks and Romans didn't know why it did what it did, but they were pretty damn happy with the whole arrangement. Thank the Gods.

A couple millennia later, we're back where we started. With the proper knowledge and effort in the fields, the wine will simply make itself. 

The French term for thirst, used by the natural wine movement to imply simplicity. Wine to drink because you are thirsty. Drinking wine, as compared to celebrating wine, or aging wine. Vin de Soif are not typically meant to age, or even think twice about opening.

Sulphur, sulphites, and SO2 (Sulphur Dioxide) are a class of food preservative, used in winemaking to kill yeast.

SO2 is used in mainly in commercial wines. Yeasts are not homogeneous, but rather an accumulation of the terroir, and the happenings over growing season. Bird shit, bees and nearby vegetation can all add to the mix of yeast strains in the field. Different strains bring aromas, flavors, alcohol tolerances, and life lengths. If you are aiming for a specific flavor profile, or don't know trust your fields, then you simply inoculate the whole batch, and start fresh with the cultivated or packaged yeast that you desire.

Like you want to throw a cucumber sandwich and rose, garden party but your crazy cousins, and that loudmouth ska/bagpipe band, and the guys from poker night all show up. Just sprinkle some SO2 down, kill em all off and you can have the genteel afternoon you imagined. Also boring as fuck. Your life, not mine.

Organic and biodynamic winemakers may eschew batch inoculation, but still be faced with some living yeasts at bottling, even after the sugars are gone and fermentation has finished. Even a little living yeast can create unwanted fizz, or aromas in a bottled wine, so winemakers may choose to treat their finished products with a tiny amount of CO2, with less than 40gram per liter still being considered Natural.

The use of a sorting table, also called Triage, involves manually inspecting grape bunches after harvest, before crushing. This process allows under ripe berries, sticks, stems, mold, insect life, or anything else unwanted to be removed, as well it allows the winemaker to select higher quality bunches and reserve those for separate processing. 

This simple act can improve quality and standards. Imagine throwing in a load of laundry and not checking your pockets for cell phones, pens, and wads of kleenex. Now you get it. 

French term meaning Old vines. No official age to use this term, but rather the assumption is the roots are deeper, and often the yields per vine are greatly reduced. All this should result in an increase of volatile compounds. Think dry aged beef. Think Grandpa's wisdom.

The process of making wine. This includes all the steps taking it from crushing grapes to the finished product.

Volcano's gonna get a good write up. Just wait!